BOAT SPECIFICATIONS

BOAT     SAILS  
Length on deck 37'8"   Main 303 sq.ft.
LWL 32'0"   Mizzen 135 sq.ft.
LOA (w/sprit, rudder) 47'0"   Jib 322 sq.ft.
Beam 11'4"   Staysail 127 sq.ft.
Draft 5'8"   Genoa (130%) 556 sq.ft.
Ballast 8,000 lbs.   Twin Trade-winders (Jibs) 322 sq.ft. each
Displacement 26,000 lbs.     (optional)
Rig: Ketch or Cutter,   Rated Sail Area 848 sq.ft.
  Marconi and full head sail   Actual Upwind Sail Area 1,008 sq.ft.
Mast height off deck: Main        49'6"     (130% Genoa)
  Mizzen   33'10"   True Sail Area 887 sq.ft.
        (Genoa not included)


SAILING CHARACTERISTICS

   When considering an ocean passage, you will be concerned with both safety and comfort. The Ingrid differs from many other ocean sailboats in that her forgiving design and easy motion permits handling with a one or two person crew. This ease of sail handling could be critical factor in an emergency situation where one person must single-hand the boat. It also gives you the freedom to cruise without adding strangers to fill out your crew.

   The strength and durability of our Ingrid hull is well established; but not enough has been said about the boat's performance at sea. Although all Ingrids, whether wood, cement, or glass have some things in common, at Blue Water Boats we have built in some characteristics that are unique to our Ingrid 38.

   The Ingrid's full keel gives her incomparable directional stability. With the sails balanced, her course will remain true without a hand on the helm.

   Looking head on at the bow section, you can see that the Ingrid retains a flaring "V" section forward. This gives the water a chance to cushion the downward plunge from a wave crest. The fine entry produces such a gentle motion that even the forward berth is comfortable at sea.

   We spread the ballast full fore and aft. So instead of pitching up and down in head seas, the Ingrid rides up and down in a steadier plane, like a long pole. The extra waterline length also contributes to reduction of the hobby-horsing motion so prevalent in shorter versions of this hull.

   Ample flotation in both the bow and stern allows them to lift easily out of troughs and to stay dry.

HULL SPEED

   The hull speed is calculated at 7.18 knots. You will probably only experience this in optimum sailing conditions, however, 6 knots while cruising is considered good - and you can do this consistently.

HEAVY AIR PERFORMANCE

   Trade winds are generally 17-25mph (force 5) with 3-6 foot, whitecapped waves and some spray in the air. Much of your ocean cruising will be done under these conditions.

   Off the wind, you can carry all the working sails, with perhaps a reef in the main. However, when running downwind, you will probably want to fly twin jibs (called trade-wind or down-wind sails), drop the working jib, staysail, and main, and leave the mizzen up for a steadying sail.

   Rolling or oscillation of the hull while on a down-wind run is a characteristic of the Ingrid. This is because the hull has round bilges; there isn't a hard chine to stop the roll. Experienced Ingrid sailors have found that hoisting the staysail horizontally between the main and mizzen masts is an excellent way to reduce the rolling motion to a minimum. However, the same round bilges ease the motion on any other point of sail.

   When beating into the wind or on a close reach, we have found that reefing the main sail generally is not the proper technique; the mainsail usually is dropped entirely. This leaves the boat moving nicely at six knots with only the three lower sails (the jib, staysail and mizzen) flying.

   We account for having to drop the main sail entirely to the increased sail area we gained when we raised the jib to the mast head position form the 3/4 position originally designed by Wm. Atkins. We changed this to allow the boat to carry more sail in light airs, to increase the head sail area in keeping with the more modern slot sail theory, and to decrease the excessive windward helm that was characteristic of the old wooden Ingrids.

   As the wind picks up past the 25 mph range, most ketch sailors will furl the jib and sail under staysail and mizzen. The mizzen would probably come down next and the staysail last. Following that you would hoist storm sails.

   Alternatively, we have seen some interesting new sail plans that call for a loose-footed staysail to overlap the mainsail. This means that the jib and mizzen would come down first, the main would be reefed pretty short, and the staysail and the staysail and shortened main would carry the boat closer to windward because of the overlapping slot between the staysail and main.

LIGHT AIR PERFORMANCE

   The Ingrid's performance in light air conditions has been a real surprise to all of us. You've heard how the heavy-displacement double-enders need 10-12 knots of breeze to get moving? Wrong! She consistently sails at 1/2 the wind speed (i.e., at 2 knots of wind, the boat moves at 1 knot) up to 8 knots of wind. Consequently you will move along nicely even if your sailing is confined to inshore waters. More importantly, you will move out of doldrums which all ocean sailors experience sooner or later.

SAFETY

   No boatbuilder can make a boat that is immune to accident and misfortune. In the final analysis you are the major factor in your crew's safety and well-being. There are, however, many things we do to give you an extra margin of safety. To illustrate: back to the ballast again, and the fact that we spread it out from the bow to the stern. After we have glassed over the ballast to the same laminate dimensions as the hull sides, you have a double-bottomed boat. Important when aground on a reef or rock!

   No one likes to dwell on striking a submerged object. However, even the most experienced sailor sometimes suffers this occurrence if he travels far enough. Having the heavy glass buildup in the keel coupled with a totally encased ballast allows striking a reef, holing the bottom, and being able to sail on until repairs are made on your next haulout.

   The other area we strengthen to give you and added measure of safety is the rudder. If you should run afoul, the boat probably will raise up, continue forward, and slam down again on her stern shoe. So we massively glass in the stern shoe section, and provide a large bronze shoe casting for that area; giving as much protection for the rudder as possible.

WHY WE BUILD ONLY TO SEMI-COMPLETE

   We build the Ingrid only to the semi-complete stage for two reasons: 1) We can concentrate our skill on the strength and structural integrity of the boat. Because we don't have to concern ourselves with finishing and equipping each boat, we can spend more time carefully constructing the main components. 2) When you have completed your trim, upholstery, wiring, plumbing, and equipment selection and installation, you will know where and how everything is put together, so if something fails at sea you will know how to repair it - quite possibly lifesaving knowledge! In addition, you can select the equipment you feel is necessary for your voyage, not what the production company thinks is adequate.

   We don't want you to think that once you have purchased your Ingrid you are "on your own". Quite the opposite. We will give you the benefit of our experience and advice for as long as you want it! We have plans and ideas that are available for each owner and can put you in touch with various Seattle area marine vendors who will give you the same boatbuilders discounts (25% - 40%) they give us.

   We have also put together a catalogue of metal components and fine wood pieces that re designed and built specifically for the Ingrid. As an Ingrid owner, you may order from these at any time.

WHAT IT WILL COST

   Besides the other considerations, building your own boat is very rewarding financially. Our owners save between $25,000 - $50,000 by finishing their own Ingrids. With some managerial ability and lots of work (even if you are not an experienced woodworker), your boat may equal or even exceed the quality achieved by manufacturers and many craftsmen.

   Total cost of your Ingrid is certainly an important consideration. We have noted that most of our owners select the finest equipment available - often grades better than a production boat. So while the savings in labor and production is real, the Ingrid is definitely not a bargain boat.

   Because of the instability of consumer interest rates and the difficulty in financing a complete package, we suspect that many people feel they have to postpone their boat purchase. Our response to this is to suggest that you follow the example of other Ingrid owners. Many of them have us build the main structure of their boat, then take it home until they have funds for additional components. In the meantime they are working on it themselves and some are even in the water. Or, you may want to order part of your boat now (hull, bulkheads, deck), have it stored near the boatyard until you have additional funds, then add other main components (ballast, engine, interior plywood). It seems to us that buying a boat in stages may be the answer for many of you.

   Most Ingrids are owner-finished for around $75,000; less if you fabricate many of the pieces yourself; more if you choose to hire some of the finishing done. Ingrid owners are not rich; most are making sacrifices to realize their dreams. But you will not meet people more fulfilled and vibrant than those who have finished and are sailing their Ingrids.

"When is the right time to buy a boat? There never is a "right time" - finally you just decide you have waited long enough - and take the first step."


COMPONENT SPECIFICATIONS

HULL:
25 mil gel coat, your choice of colors. Anti-fouling paint molded in below the waterline. 6" bulwark molded in at the hull sheer to mate with glass deck. Layup: 1 layer each of 3/4 oz. Mat, 7 1/2 oz. Cloth, 3/4 oz. Mat, then 7 layers of 24 oz. Roving topsides, 9 layers of roving 1 foot above the waterline and down. Last 6 layers doubled over center seam. 6 extra layers down stem and stern. The lines, of course, are Atkin's original; still proven superior to all modifications.
BULKHEADS:
1" AA marine plywood glassed to hull and deck. Wood is pretreated for maximum resin penetration, then set on ½" foam strips on the hull to prevent hard spots and five proper contour for bonding of glass. Bonded to hull with 1 layer mat and 3 layers roving, 12" wide, each side of the bulkhead.
RUDDER:
Heavy glass laminate wrapped around Klegecell foam core. Installed with massive bronze gudgeons and pintles. It wasn't until we felt we could build a rudder strong enough to hold 13 tons of boat adrift backwards that we finally felt secure in offering a rudder for the Ingrid.
DECK AND CABIN TOP:
Deep non-skid pattern molded in your choice of color. Deck has 6" upturned lip to mate inside of hull bulwark. Layup: 15 mil gel coat, 1 layer each of 1 1/2 oz. Mat, 7 oz. Cloth, 24 oz. Roving, 1 1/2 oz. Mat, 3/4" balsa core, 1 1/2 oz. Mat, 3 layers 24 oz. Roving, 4 layers of 1/2" plywood laminated under main mast step location, 3 layers under mizzen. The deck is not just stiff; it is engineered to withstand tons of green water.
DECK BONDED TO HULL AND BULKHEADS:
6" upturned lip on the deck is mated with the 6" hull bulwark. The connection underneath is glassed with 1 layer 1 1/2 oz. Mat and 3 layers 24 oz. Roving, 12" wide. Bulkhead to deck joints glassed with 1 layer mat and 3 layers 18 oz. Roving. The deck to hull bond makes the difference between a pleasant, dry interior and a constantly wet boat at sea.
BALLAST:
8,000 pounds total. Approximately 7300 pounds steel and 700 pounds resin and sand. Placed inside the keel full fore and aft from bobstay iron to the stern shoe, approximately 20" deep at the deepest part. Glassed over with 1 layer 2 oz. Mat, 6 layers roving to provide a double-bottomed boat, box beam rigidity, immense strength. Cooper screen laid under the ballast with copper cables up to each bulkhead for a ground plane for long distance radio. Also serves as grounding for all fittings. Limber pipe laid in ballast to drain water under the tanks. If you want extra tankage volume, lead may be substituted for steel. Price quoted at time of construction.
INTEGRAL TANKAGE:
Fuel and water tanks, varying in size, but approximately 50 gallons each. All glass, baffled, heavy construction, gel-coated on inside. No plumbing or openings. Utilizes otherwise unused space below the engine.
DIESEL ENGINE:
Volvo MD11C, 2 cylinder, 24 hp, with 1:91 MS reverse/reduction gear. Includes instruments, control handle, control cables (6'), 35 amp alternator, electric starter, tool kit, instruction book, water-cooled silencer, exhaust hoses and through-hull fitting, sea-water intake with bronze sea cock and through-hull fitting, engine alarm (hi temp-low oil pressure), Racor water separator and fuel filter, VDO engine hour meter. Engine burns 1/2 gallon per hour at cruising speed. Installation includes flexible rubber mounts, 4" x 6" wood stringers, stainless steel stern tube, cutlass bearing, stuffing box, 1 1/4" stainless steel shaft, 15" x 12" 3-blade bronze propeller, silencer and water intake.
BOBSTAY IRON:
1/2" x 1 1/2" x 4' polished stainless steel. Installed with 1/2" x 6" stainless bolts, heavy timber backing block. Note: All fabricated stainless steel pieces are of type 316, the highest quality (and most expensive) grade.
CABIN SOLE:
1" marine plywood laid between bulkheads and glassed to hull sides. 6'4" headroom standard; more if ordered. Neat hatches cut down center for access to tanks and bilges.
INTERIOR PLYWOOD:
Glassed to hull, wood-to-wood joints fastened with cleats, bronze screws and plastic resin glue. Facing pieces are not glued so they can be removed to cut out the doors and drawers. Antique white-faced laminate on plywood is available at extra cost (also available for bulkheads). This allows you to move aboard and trim later. Chain lockers and forward berths: 1" marine plywood for massive strength in forward impact area, glassed to hull. Settees/Sea Berths/Shelves in Saloon, Head/Galley/Lockers/Navigation Station: 3/4" marine plywood per your interior plan. No doors or drawers cut out, no moldings or trim.
SPARS:
Laminated clear spruce, 49'10" x 7" x 9" main, and 34' x 5" x 7" mizzen. Resorcinol glued, sanded smooth, wrapped in plastic. Main mast contains 4 wires, no fittings. Masts are deck stepped. Set contains 3 booms, 3 pairs spreaders, laminated bowsprit.
MAST TOPS AND SPREADER SOCKETS:
Heavy duty aluminum and stainless fittings. 3 sheaves on main, 2 sheaves on mizzen. Sockets with all tangs, pins and bolts.
STANDING RIGGING KIT:
For ketch per plan we furnish: 1/2" and 5/16" stainless 1x19 wire (triatic stay is 3/16", bobstay shrouds 3/8"). All eyes and turnbuckles are Castlok. Strongest and best fittings we know of according to several torture tests conducted by boating magazines.
CHAIN PLATES:
12 singles, 4 doubles, 2 whiskers. Singles are 2 1/2" x 24" x 1/4" tapered, highly polished stainless steel. Punched for carriage bolts.
BOW AND STERN PULPITS, LIFELINES, STANCHIONS AND GATES:
Pulpits are 1" stainless steel. Upright sections are double walled (3/4" stainless pipe inside of 1" pipe). Stern pulpit has stern electric light on a teak pad. Stanchions and pulpits mounted to bulwark of boat, not to deck. Lifelines are plastic coated stainless, with turnbuckles and fittings. A proper 36" high off deck.
BOWSPRIT FITTINGS:
The gammoning iron is on the stem of the hull. It supports the bowsprit and is also the collar for the forestay. Holds two bronze anchor rollers which are included. The cranze iron, on the forward end of the bowsprit, is a 4" diameter capped pipe with ears on the top, sides, and bottom for stays and shrouds. Full 14" fastening plate on top for headstay and jib furlings hardware. This allows ample room for roller-furling gear behind headstay. The butt plate at back of bowsprit bolts through deck to hold bowsprit in place. All fittings are heavy, drilled, and highly polished.
MAST STEPS:
Stainless steel, swiveling. Huge hinge-shaft pulls for easy stepping or un-stepping. Bolts on deck.


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